PS Placeable 2K build guide
This page will walk you through all you need to know on how to assemble a PS Placeable.
PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE FIRMWARE ON THE BT PCB BEFORE STARTING THIS GUIDE. Directions here
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Be careful, any modifications to electronics can cause harm to you or your device. These kits have small parts keep them out of the reach of small children as they could be choking hazards.
Parts needed (Go install BT PCB firmware FIRST)
Ok before we begin lets assume you purchased from us, and that you have followed the disassembly guide leading you to this page next. All the parts you need for this build are: A PSP, 1 fourteen pin, 2 ten pin, and a custom PSP 2K FFC for the analog stick. The BT PCB V2, 3mm LED (any color you want we give blue ones) four M3x18 screws, eight 2x6mm magnets, top, middle, bottom printed shell, 4 special wide head screw for the PCB, the custom ribbon cable bracket, 3 shell buttons, 4 rubber feet. You will also need some cable for cutting and soldering in the next steps. We do not include loose conductors, feel free to use any that you like. Everything else is included in the kits you can. buy from us.
Lets start with soldering
(skip the next 6 steps if you bought a pre soldered kit.)
We will be cutting the PSP power cable and splicing it to the board. Its important you know which cable is positive and negative. You can use a multimeter or your cable may be labeled already like mine is. Its always best to check though.
(UPDATE 2/1/2025) New board revisions (Front)
New board designs are in the works to make assembly and soldering easier. The first revision going out is the new board has only 1 analog connector. The picture below will show the front changes and the next will show the back changes.
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​Blue - Analog is now one connector to prevent cable overlap issues. 2K builds will get a 4 pin custom ribbon cable and 3K builds the big change is this connector is ribbon fingers down. (more on that when we connect cables.
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Red - This is where you will solder negative and positive for the gray PSP part. Its the power going into the PSP
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Yellow - This is where the yellow barrel connector will get soldered to. The positive and negative power in.
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These pads may move in a future revision but the labels will stay the same. So the guide applies even if your board looks different but has the same labels.
(UPDATE 2/1/2025) New board revisions (Back)
The back has a few changes to be on the look out for.
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Yellow - These are the LED positive and negative solder points. There is no longer an LED on the board to remove as these all will be for consolizers. This also allows for a much shorter LED cable.
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Red - This is for analog connection. If the 2K ribbon cable is giving you trouble you can solder from the 2K PSP board to these points for a permanent connection. The PSP can not be changed after that so please know this is a last resort.
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These pads may move in a future revision but the labels will stay the same. So the guide applies even if your board looks different but has the same labels.
Tape the custom ribbon cable down
Remove the cover from the double sided tape. Place the cable down over the 4 pads. The white lines around the FFC pads should be facing up. The placement of this is very important. You should feel no resistance when pressing the tape down. If the top edge is rubbing any components or the video out connector carefully trim a bit of the top with scissors. DO NOT CUT ANY TRACES. If you have a thumb stick that is endlessly triggering when your build is done it means this cable was not seated right. I am working on more info for this step.
It is easy to ruin this pads or traces so be carful not to bend the ribbon cable at 90 degree angles slight bending is fine but a hard bend or crease will damage the traces.
Spacer to hold the ribbon in place
The ribbon cable needs pressure to hold it in place. We accomplish this in two ways. A spacer and a peg inside the base of the Placeable shell. The spacer lines up with the exact spot the thumb stick would be. This lets users set aside the thumb stick and or helps users who no longer have a thumb stick.
Place the board back in the shell
Slide the PSP board into the shell. make sure you lift the disk drive power and read cables up. then press the board into place we will be screwing the board down using a small black screw we removed from the bottom corner.
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Please keep in mind that no ribbon cables should be folded completely in half or creased, its easy for the traces to brake if you do that!
Place the bracket over the PCB before connecting the last ribbon cable.
(Update 1/21/25 - Most if not all orders at this point will ship with 4 custom screws that hold the PCB in place without the bracket.)
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Slide the bracket down into place over the PCB. make sure to pull the ribbon cables through. You can always cut the bracket above the ESP to slide the cables in and out but I have found it best to leave the bracket as is.
Custom analog FFC
The last ribbon cable goes to the analog connector and can be a bit harder to get into place but the next picture shows how I have my cables all set up.
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Update, If you have a V0.3-C or later board revision or you only see a 4 pin analog connector. That is used for the 2000 build as well with a new 4 pin custom ribbon cable.
Connect the analog ribbon
The two side cables are on top and the bottom cables are under the other two. Its at this step I tell people to connect ribbon cables and test out the buttons and analog stick. I have had to take quite a few apart that I didnt test before assembling. Jump down a few steps to see how the ribbon cables connect, then come back and get your shell ready for assembly! :)
Popping out supports
Any part that has an overhang in printing needs supports. The 4 holes for our screws and the base buttons have support parts. It is possible yours have not been removed. Doing so is easy.
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For the base buttons just push your buttons into place which will pop the supports out.
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The 4 corners take one of your included black screws and push down through the top of the screw hole as shown below.
Tuck extra cable length and screw bracket into place
(Update 1/14/25 - Most orders now will ship with custom screws that eliminate the need for a PCB bracket.)
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I tuck an extra cable under the PCB. Make sure that all buttons on the bottom can still be pressed and your cables are not in the way of those. I start with the circled screw, under it is a guiding peg to help you line the board up.
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DONT OVER TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS - these are just the right length but they don't bottom out so just a few turns will be enough to keep them in place. Once you feel a little resistance they are set.
Start to connect the cables to the PSP
Slide your PSP right against the case and start to connect the cables. I am putting the power in last here but there is no real order for this. Remember the back of the BT PCB has all the ribbon name locations so you can read those if you forget which cable is which. Below is an image that shows the corresponding locations.
(Optional) - Slide LED into the holder
The inside wall on the front of the shell has a small part that is made to hold the 3mm LED we included with the kit. If you choose to use this LED slide it into place and bend the legs around the center part while pressing the LED into the cone with tweezers. It should stay in place on its own.
Fold your PSP forward
The PSP should line up perfectly with the 4 pegs that match the location of the screw posts on the front screen. The ribbon cables should fold on themselves and then the PSP can be screwed in place using the 4 shell screws we kept from disassembling the PSP.
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TIP - Its at this point I tend to put two of the four screws in (two corners) and I take it to my set up and test it. Its best to load a game up that you know uses all the PSP buttons, and the analog stick You can also remote into the webapp and test the connections. Click here to open a page with that part of the configuration guide.(not set up just yet)
Slide magnets into place
(Update 1/14/25 - Some orders will have 4 thin magnets and 4 thick magnets stack these in sets of 2 with 1 thin and 1 thick.)
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The kits will come with 8 magnets. These 2x6 dots will be placed in stacks of two into the holes at the 4 corners of the top part. Simply push the stack in so that 2 magnets are inside the hole. Doing that for all 4 holes.
You may have to apply some force to get them into place. Make sure you have the top resting on a flat surface so you don't brake the thin face if using a full cover top. The magnets will stay in all by themselves.
You are all done!!!
Alright great job! you got it all together and ready to go. Hopefully you ran a test a few steps ago when I suggested to do so. If not then go plug it in and connect a controller. If everything works as intended then you are ready to configure custom button mappings and see what the web app has to offer for using all the features of the BT mod. The link below will take you to the configuration guide the last one!